Quick review of Temperature, Salinity & Density

Do you have your notes?

How do waves form?

Most waves form when winds blowing across the water's surface transmit their energy to the water.

What determines the size of the wave?

The size of the wave depends on the strength of the wind, the length of time it blows, and the distance over which the wind blows.

How do water particles move as the wave passes?

• Water particles move in a circular path.

Crest

The highest point of a wave.

Trough

The lowest point of a wave.

Wave Height

The vertical distance from the crest of a wave to the trough.

Wavelength

The horizontal distance between two wave crests.

Frequency

The number of waves that pass a specific point in a given amount of time.

As a wave approaches the shore, what happens to the wave height and wavelength?

• Near shore, the wave height INCREASES

• and the wavelength DECREASES