Waves Currents Tides

transmission of energy through matter

The matter itself is moved by the wave itself in a circular pattern

Orbital waves are the waves that are most often witnessed in the ocean. Orbital waves move in a circular motion as the energy passes.

the region of the shore where waves collapse

There is a mathematical reason why waves collapse, the height to length ratio

When the height of a wave exceeds 1/7 of the length of the wave, the wave will collapse

In deep water, this is usually caused by wind

n shallow water near shore, wave height builds as water depth gets more shallow

1. Plunging breakers form where the ocean floor is moderately steep, beautiful curl at the top (think surfing)

2. Spilling breakers - occur where the ocean floor is gradual

3. Surging breaker - occur where the floor is very steep - destructive

Daily variations in sea level caused by the pull of the moon and sun

3 types that depend on the shape of the ocean basin